Tuesday, August 24, 2010

Gumbo Roux-lette

Over the weekend, I made my first attempt in quite a while to duplicate Nanny's gumbo. I studied, gathered information, collected ingredients and propped picture of her on the counter as I prepared the kitchen for a gumbo onslaught. [Here is a photo of Marie Stewart Brewer and W.L. Brewer, Jr., circa 1942] 






Of course, I had to find out more about gumbo - for your sake and mine! Here is what WiseGeek says about gumbo:


Gumbo is a type of spicy stew typical of Louisiana and South Carolina cuisines, but also consumed frequently on the Gulf of Mexico. The hearty dish consists basically of two ingredients: broth and rice. While this may sound boring and limited, gumbo is actually a dish with an extremely large variety of flavors and consistencies, depending on how the broth is made. 

The main varieties of gumbo broth include seafood, chicken, red meats (including sausages), and pork. A vegetarian variety also exists, and it was created for consumption primarily during Lent. Instead of meat, vegetarian gumbo is made using mashed greens that have been thickened with a roux, a mixture of butter and wheat flour.


The word gumbo is a reference to the African word kigombo, meaning okra. This refers to the old tradition of using okra to provide a flavor base. The rice used in gumbo is not cooked on the broth but separately, and only added to the dish at the time of serving. Once the broth is made, you can then add whatever type of meat and vegetables you feel will complement the dish. For example, you can add tasso, a type of Cajun smoked pork to pork gumbo, or shrimp, crabmeat, and oysters to the seafood gumbo. Gumbo is consumed primarily during winter months because its hearty consistence makes it a great choice during cold days. Also, gumbo requires a long cooking time, as the broth must be left to simmer for hours to achieve the appropriate thickness.  


Last week, as if on cue, my weekly produce box was delivered - and it was full of okra! I pulled out my trusty (not-so-rusty) Charleston Reciepts cookbook and quickly realized that the seafood section read like a scene from the movie FORREST GUMP: shrimp for breakfast, shrimp pie, stewed shrimp, shrimp curry, etc.  I also realized that the recipe that most resembled my grandmother's required the aforementioned roux.
I won't tell you the result of my gumbo taste test (although I'm quite proud of it). I will say that it received the thumbs up from my dad and the OTHER gumbo girl. I will say that my most important lesson of the day was creating the roux. Making a good one is risky and if you burn even one tiny grain of flour you have to throw it out. What you read is right: the first ingredient of a good roux is patience. Mine ran out after 30 minutes - but I managed a light roux that created the perfect color in the gumbo. My main victory for the day was that I did not burn my first attempt at a real roux. 
MY NEW ROUX RECIPE:
1 Stick Fleishman's Unsalted Margarine
5 Tablespoons of All-Purpose Flour

Cook over low heat for 30 minutes, 
stirring nearly constantly with a wooden spoon.